Kashi, also known as Varanasi or Benares, is considered the eternal city of Lord Shiva. Shiva is said to reside here with Goddess Parvati, and it is believed that those who die in Kashi attain moksha, liberation from the material world. It is the final resting place, a city that symbolises the cycle of life and death.
When the sagacious American humorist Mark Twain visited Varanasi in the late nineteenth century, he said, “Banaras is older than hishistory, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” He also said, “In religion, all other countries are paupers. India is the only millionaire.”
The entry to Kashi is guarded by Kaal Bhairav, and so we began our Kashi yatra with darshan at the Kaal Bhairav temple at dawn. This early morning visit helped us avoid the crowd, allowing us to connect with the deity in a more peaceful setting, even though it was busy.
The main temple, Kashi Vishwanath, is a grand shrine to Lord Shiva. The current temple is magnificently maintained, though the original temple, known as Gyan Vapi, was converted into a mosque. The Gyan Vapi Shiva Linga is still revered, and despite being a site of dispute and tension, devotees come here to offer their respects.
Our next stop was the Annapurna Temple, dedicated to Goddess Parvati in her form as the provider of food and sustenance. The temple opens for just five days a year, and on Dhanteras, pilgrims receive a special coin blessed by Annapurna herself.
The Powerful Cremation Grounds of Manikarnika Ghat
Manikarnika Ghat, one of Kashi’s primary cremation grounds, is where the bodies of the deceased are cremated. The intensity of this ghat cannot be overstated—it is said that Lord Shiva himself whispers liberation to those who pass away here. The Gujarati saying, "Surat nu bhojan ane Kashi nu maran," meaning "the best place to eat is Surat, and the best place to die is Kashi," captures the profound reverence held for this place. Manikarnika is a reminder of life’s impermanence, inspiring detachment and spiritual awakening.
Kashi: Walking the Sacred Streets and Witnessing the Evening Aarti
Walking through Varanasi’s narrow, winding lanes is the best way to experience the soul of Kashi, especially along the ghats. These streets, lined with small temples, shops selling sacred items, and the aromas of incense and street food, create a powerful ambiance unique to this ancient city. Varanasi’s ghats—leading down to the sacred Ganga—are like a series of steps into another world, each one resonating with stories, rituals, and chants that have remained unchanged for centuries.
In the evening, we made our way to Dashashmedha Ghat, one of the most renowned ghats in Varanasi, to witness the grand Ganga Aarti. The aarti ceremony at Dashashmedha Ghat is a visual and spiritual spectacle, with priests in synchronised movements, holding large flaming lamps and chanting Vedic hymns. The Ganga Aarti is more than a ritual—it’s a tribute to the river, embodying divine feminine energy, and witnessing it is a deeply humbling experience.
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